Wool or Cashmere for blazer?
Question:
What is better a wool coat/blend or solid cashmere for a blazer?
Reply:
Cashmere is light in weight for its thickness and provides a higher degree of warmth than other fabrics of similar weight. Good quality cashmere feels and looks very luxurious and plush, more so than almost any other fabric. The disadvantage of cashmere is that it is much more delicate than a good quality wool. What makes a good blazer really depends on the features that are important to you.
Suit odor?
Question:
Some of my wool suits smell as though they are sweat stained or in need of cleaning even after they have been dry cleaned. These are all top line and fairly expensive items. What is causing this? Is there ever a time when the lining within the jacket and trousers can/should be replaced? Thanks.
Reply:
This is a question that I would take to a large, very professional dry cleaner. The Better Business Bureau might be able to lead you to someone in the business that can respond to your question. But following are some of my thoughts. Before you go to any expense try a different cleaner that has an excellent reputation. There are many reasons why a cleaner can perform poorly. The odor you may be experiencing may be mildew. If dry cleaning does not remove the odor try airing the garment outdoors for several days. If this does not work some cleaners that deal with cleaning clothing after a fire have an ozone room which generally can get rid of some very offensive smells. Try to find one of these guys in your neighborhood.
The lining does not have to be replaced unless it is torn to a point where it cannot be repaired. The odor is imbedded in the fabric, canvas etc. Replacing the lining will not solve your problem.
Choosing The Right Suit: Fitting
Below is an extract from our Interview Guide eBook available at http://www.execstyle.com/eBook/Interview_Dress_Etiquette.pdf
Choosing The Right Suit: Fitting
Jacket:
Jacket Length
- Should just cover crotch and seat of pants. Can hang 1-2" longer
Collar
- Should fit snuggly against back of neck. Allow 1/4 - 1/2" of shirt collar to show
- Back of jacket should lie flat against back below the collar
Body of Jacket
- Should not be overly tight. Allow for some play when jacket is buttoned
- A slight break on the back beside the armhole is fine, allowing for movement
Sleeve Length
- Sleeve should come to the base of the palm when arms are at your sides
- Shirt cuffs should show 1/4 - 1/2"
Note: It is very common for arms to be different lengths. Sleeves should be
tailored to fit each arm.
Suit Pants:- Pant should sit comfortably on the waist, just above the hips.
- Pleats should not open. If pants are flat front, watch that pockets do not gape.
These are both indications that the pant is tight on the seat.
- Pant length should reach the heel in back or up to 1/2" shorter.
Allow for a small break in the front.
- Pleated pants can be worn with or without cuffs.
- Flat front pants should be finished with plain bottoms.
Choosing The Right Suit: Style
Below is an extract from our Interview Guide eBook available at http://www.execstyle.com/eBook/Interview_Dress_Etiquette.pdf
Choosing The Right Suit: Style
Color / Pattern
- For entry or mid-level positions, dark grey and navy suits are best.
- Black is more formal and austere.
- Solid colored suits are best. Subtle stripes are fine. Avoid flashy patterns.
- Strong stripes convey authority and are appropriate for higher level positions.
Single vs. Double Breasted
Choose a 2 or 3 button single breasted suit. Double breasted suits will look sloppy
worn open, and are not considered main stream in the corporate climate.
Buttons
- 3-button suits will look best on a taller, slimmer man.
- 2-Button suits will have a slimming effect on a shorter, stockier man.
Choosing The Right Suit: Fabric
Below is an extract from our Interview Guide eBook available at
http://www.execstyle.com/eBook/Interview_Dress_Etiquette.pdfChoosing The Right Suit: FabricWoolA quality wool is the most appropriate fabric for your interview. Wool is
resilient, crease resistant, drapes well and is relatively long wearing.
Wool breathes, is comfortable in a wider range of temperatures and
has an elegance that cannot be duplicated.
Other FabricsFabrics such as silks, linen, rayon have their place in a less formal
environment where one wishes to make a fashion statement.
Polyester on its own or blended with wool can be presentable but may
feel like you are wearing a plastic bag. It is also likely to pill.
A quality microfiber, a fine fiber woven from polyester or a polyester
blend, can be woven to breathe reasonably well but does not have the
elegance of wool.
The Look: Accessories
Below is an extract from our Interview Guide eBook available at
http://www.execstyle.com/eBook/Interview_Dress_Etiquette.pdfComplete the professional lookBring a conservative briefcase or leather binderShould put everything you need at easy access:Reference letters, resume copies, notepad- High quality pen: Simple, nice, not overly ornate
Avoid accessories associated with studentsBackpacks. Overly colorful, branded or ornate notebooks and binders
Accessories should complement your professional look, but not distract the interviewer.
The Look: Shoes, Socks, Belts
Below is an extract from our Interview Guide eBook available at
http://www.execstyle.com/eBook/Interview_Dress_Etiquette.pdfThe Look: Shoes, Socks, BeltsBusiness Attire VS Smart CasualShoes:- Clean, polished and black
- Burgundy or brown are fashionable, but a little risky for an interview
- Stick to black unless your matching skills are excellent.
Belt:
- Should match shoe color
- Avoid overly large or flashy belts
Socks:
- Coordinate with suit
- Same shade or a shade darker
- Solid or with a subtle design
- Never wear athletic socks.
Shoes:
- Clean, polished leather
- Avoid sneakers and boots
Belt:
- Coordinate with shoes
- Avoid overly large or flashy belts
Socks:
- No bright pastel colors
- Use muted tones
- Don't be remembered for your socks!
The Look: Shirts and Ties
Below is an extract from our Interview Guide eBook available at
http://www.execstyle.com/eBook/Interview_Dress_Etiquette.pdfThe Look: Shirts and TiesBusiness Attire VS Smart CasualDress shirt:- Shades of light to mid blue are most
effective. If you choose another color,
pastels are safest.
- Subtle patterns are fine
- White shirts create a more formal look
Silk Tie: Keep it subtle- Should coordinate with suit and shirt
- Patterns in your shirt, tie and suit will
fight each other unless they are different
designs and size
* Need help getting the right tie knots?
Go to:
www.ExecStyle.com/TieKnots.aspCasual Shirts:- Long-sleeved are more business oriented
- Button-down is a neater look
- Cotton or cotton-blend
- Solid pastels or small subtle patterns
subdued patterns
- Crisp, clean and pressed
- Avoid T-Shirts and black
Sweaters:
- Sweater alone or under a sport coat
is a great look
- Never a sweatshirt
Tie:
The Look: Jackets and Pants
Below is an extract from our Interview Guide eBook available at
http://www.execstyle.com/eBook/Interview_Dress_Etiquette.pdfThe Look: Jackets and Pants
Business Attire VS Smart CasualMid to Dark colored suit
- Solid Navy or Grey are best, you can con-
sider a subtle stripe.
- More prominent stripes are appropriate
only for higher level executive positions
- Black suits are more formal and austere.
If you do wear black, soften the look with
a blue shirt.
Pants: Must match jacket
- Pleated pants have a more classical look
- Flat front pants have a slimming, mod-
ern look, but may look awkward on larger
men.
- Suit pants and jacket MUST be tailored
from identical fabric.
VERSUS
Khakis or slacks
- Always with a crisp crease
- Cotton, wool or micro-fiber
- Darker colors are dressier
- Lighter colors are more casual
- Avoid jeans or cargo pants
Sport coat or blazer:
- Makes a casual look a bit more formal
- Can be removed for a more casual look
- Choose a jacket in a solid shade or a
subtle design (no bold, bright patterns or
colors)
Business Attire VS Smart Casual
Below is an extract from our Interview Guide eBook available at
http://www.execstyle.com/eBook/Interview_Dress_Etiquette.pdf"Business attire" is a full suit with matching pants, a dress shirt and tie.
It differs from the type of outfit you might wear to a wedding or evening
event. It is conservative, designed to be sharp but not flashy, and elegant
but not overly formal. The idea is to showcase the individual, not the
clothes.
"Smart casual" is a more relaxed, yet professional look. Pressed
pants, a collared shirt, and clean, matching accessories. A sport coat
will add a touch of class to a casual look. Avoid jeans, sneakers and
T-shirts. You should never dress completely casual to an interview.
Rule 2: Err Towards Formality
Below is an extract from our Interview Guide eBook available at
http://www.execstyle.com/eBook/Interview_Dress_Etiquette.pdfRule 2: Err Towards Formality
It is harder to overcome being underdressed than being overdressed
Dress like a professional and you will feel like a professionalIf you feel overdressed
- Don’t Panic: You’re sending a strong message about taking the position
seriously
- Politely tell the interviewer that the casual dress code gives the office a
warm and familiar atmosphere that you would like to be a part of
- If you can, discretely remove your jacket and drape it over your chair
If You feel underdressed
- Maintain a professional demeanor, to compensate for informal attire
- Maintain an erect posture
- Speak formally (avoiding colloquialisms and words such as "like" and
"you know").
- Mention that you were misinformed about the dress code and you look
forward to dressing more professionally
Rule 1: Research Ahead
Below is an extract from our Interview Guide eBook available at
http://www.execstyle.com/eBook/Interview_Dress_Etiquette.pdfRule 1: Research AheadChoosing the right interview attire is not alchemy.
It's a matter of knowing the corporate culture and the position's demands.Check out the website
Many corporate websites will show images of employees in their work
routines. Use this as a clue. Also, review the career section for comments
on interview etiquette.Go to the source
Visit ahead of time to observe the workers in context. If dress is casual,
be sure that it's not a dress down day such as Casual Friday. If you have
any doubt call HR to ask what is expected. Many companies expect pro-
fessional attire for interviews even though the office dress code is quite
casual.Consider the type of position you are applying for
Creative positions such as advertising and design may allow for a more
liberal look. Positions involving high-level consultations, or meetings with
important clients may require a classical professional look. If you are un-
sure of what standards to apply, ask a business dress expert:www.ExecStyle.com/AskExpert.asp
Flat or Pleated Pants with Double Breasted Suit?
Question:
Can flat-front pants be worn with a double-breasted suit, or is it always double-breast+pleated trousers?
Reply:The convential combination whether you are looking back at the 20's and 30's or if you are looking at recent fashion trends has always been a pleated pant with a double breasted jacket. You can always decide to express your own style and wear something that is a little less conventional which is what all fashion designers and artists do. But.......... in my opinion, the reason we have always seen pleated pants with a double breasted jacket is simply the combination is more balanced than it would appear with a flat fron pant. A pleated pant and a DB jacket are both a fuller look which is contrary to the look of the flat front pant.
Discover Loro Piana Fine Woolens
For those who are interested in discovering more about luxurious, fine woolens by Loro Piana, read the following exerpt from the Loro Piana website.
Wool was the first natural fiber used for clothing and still remains among the most important fibres because of its hygroscopic, breathable and insulating characteristics.The most precious wool comes from the merino sheep, which originated in the Mediterranean coastal area but was introduced towards the end of the eighteenth century in Australia and New Zealand, where they found an ideal habitat.
The unwavering dedication of the breeders has led to significant results; today these sheep can produce a total of up to 10 kg of fine wool. After scrupulous checks and gradings, the wool is sold at auctions held each year from January to June in the various collection centres.Loro Piana purchases at these auctions the best lots, in particular the Top Line 1PP bales.
Some of these lots have established true records of fineness, called Record Bales. From these bales Loro Piana manufactures exclusive fabrics in limited editions for the most discerning and refined consumers.In order to provide an incentive for the production of excellent raw materials, in 2000 Loro Piana established the "World Wool Record Challenge Cup". It acknowledges the professionalism of the breeders and rewards their commitment to produce wools of an increasingly superior quality.
Brightness, elasticity, resistance: these are the characteristics of
Zelander, a family of fabrics for suits that are light, cool and particularly soft to the touch. They are obtained from a precious variety of merino wool from New Zealand. This shiny white fiber has a superior resistance and is exceptionally long in relation to its fineness. Available in limited quantities, this particular type of merino wool is the result of the breeders' professional understanding and dedication to quality combined with the ideal environmental conditions of New Zealand, a land still largely wild and uncontaminated, in which the flocks live.Loro Piana has further enhanced the distinctive properties of this fiber through the use of exclusive spinning and weaving techniques, transforming it into a range of modern, dynamic and highly wearable fabrics which ensure particular comfort for garments made only and exclusively from pure wool.
Execstyle offers several fine garments tailored using Loro Piana fabric and can custom tailor suits from a variety of these exceptional fabrics for you. Click the thumb nails for more information about each model.
To find out more about custom suits call toll free at 1-877-393-2789
How to Match a Pocket Square
Question:Your view of pocket squares? Matching color to tie? to shirt? or not matching to any of the above. Solid color, Flowered print, Muli colored. What is your opinion. Thanks, Ken
Reply:
The answer is a resounding yes! All your suggestions work depending on the look you want to achieve. The solid color pocket square usually matches the shirt or one of the colors in the tie and is a dressier presentation. A multi-color puff should match your outfit like a floral couch in your living room goes with striped wall paper and a high quality Persian rug. The multi-color puff should be placed into the jacket pocket in a square format.
Interview Attire: Stripes
In our eBook on interview dressing etiquette, we make the recommendation to avoid striped suits. Many people have argued that they love wearing striped suits to interviews, and that they should be completely appropriate. For your interest, here are some further notes on wearing striped suits to interviews.
1. Remember that our eBook is merely providing a set of ideals. You should consider them as practical guidelines rather than do or die absolutes. While a striped suit might be a more risky choice than a solid toned suit, it can still be made to work. You must simply be aware of the image that you wish to convey and adjust your outfit accordingly.
2. Pinstriped suits generally are used to convey authority. Tighter, bolder stripe patterns are considered more flashy and fashion oriented. Younger interview candidates who wear boldly striped suits risk being perceived as arrogant. If you do choose to wear a striped suit, you can temper this effect by coordinating it with a very conservative shirt and tie. Try a pale blue shirt and a tie with a small, subtle repetitive pattern.
3. Not all striped suits are the same. A subtle, widely spaced pinstripe suit is preferable over tighter, bolder stripes. Follow the links below to see examples of three overly bold striped suits, and three "acceptable" striped suits.
Overly bold:
http://www.execstyle.com/Sproducts.asp?pid=1401http://www.execstyle.com/Sproducts.asp?pid=1077#http://www.execstyle.com/Sproducts.asp?pid=1402#Acceptable:
http://www.execstyle.com/Sproducts.asp?pid=436http://www.execstyle.com/Sproducts_sepa.asp?pid=1107http://www.execstyle.com/Sproducts.asp?pid=1016#
1-877-ExecStyle (1-877-393-2789) 
